Gold engagement rings are a bride’s all-time favorite. But how do you pick a gold color that matches the style of your ring and the center diamond? Here’s a quick breakdown of gold alloys and what you need to consider when deciding on an engagement ring.
What kind of metal is gold? Why is it used in engagement rings?
Gold is an element (Au) in the periodic table and a precious metal that has been used in jewelry for over 6,000 years. Symbolizing the life-giving power of the sun, gold was already used by the ancient Egyptians and Sumerians to create jewelry. Its breathtaking appeal remains, and gold engagement rings are still the choice of many people. Why use gold in engagement rings? In addition to looking beautiful, gold engagement rings:
- Durability: Gold itself is durable and corrosion-resistant, making daily wear and maintenance easier.
- Easy to craft and repair: Gold is highly workable.
- Affordable: Gold is generally less expensive than platinum, another metal commonly used in engagement rings and other jewelry.
What gives gold its color?
Gold’s natural color is a result of its atomic structure and the movement of electrons within it. This structure and movement causes the metal to selectively reflect parts of the spectrum of light, particularly red and yellow wavelengths, which together create the “gold” color we see. Pure gold is not hard enough for an engagement ring, so it is often alloyed with other metals, such as copper, silver, and zinc, to increase its hardness and durability. In addition to making the gold harder, metal alloys also affect its color. Color is a measure of the purity of a precious metal, measured in parts per thousand (ppt). The term “karat” (K) is used to describe the color of a gold material, with pure gold considered 24 parts pure gold, or 24K. If a metal alloy is 75% pure gold, it is 18 parts gold and 6 parts alloy, or 18K. Since 18K gold has a fineness of 750 ppt, an 18K gold engagement ring may be stamped 750 or 18K, depending on the laws of the country where the ring was produced. Likewise, 14K gold is 58.3% pure gold, or 14 parts gold and 10 parts alloy or metal, so it should be stamped 583 (or 585) or 14K. It can be difficult to tell the fineness of different golds apart, so look for a watermark on the inside of the ring that contains this information. White gold is popular among those who prefer a white metal engagement ring. White gold is an alloy of pure gold with white metals such as nickel, palladium, and zinc. White gold can come in a variety of alloys, and 14K or 18K white gold is often used for engagement rings. Note that white gold is often plated with rhodium for a more shiny finish and to protect it from scratches. Over time, the rhodium coating can wear off, so be sure to ask your jeweler if they can re-plate your ring if necessary.
Rose gold engagement rings are a popular choice. Rose gold is usually an alloy of gold with copper and silver. To create a flattering rose-colored metal, jewelers experiment until they find the perfect hue. The proportions of the alloy they use are closely guarded secrets.
This 1.40 ct diamond engagement ring looks stunning with 0.20 ct of melee diamonds set in rose gold.
Choosing a gold color that matches your center diamond
In a diamond engagement ring, the diamond is the center of attention, and the setting is the backdrop. Whether you use yellow, white, or rose gold affects the visual impact of the diamond. Therefore, you want to choose a metal that makes the diamond appear more sparkly. Diamonds are graded on the GIA D-to-Z color scale . D represents the highest color grade (a completely colorless diamond) and Z represents the lowest (a diamond with a noticeable yellowish or brownish tint). All else being equal, the lighter the color of the diamond , the more valuable it is. You can use the color grade of your diamond and the color of the gold to create different visual effects. First, you need to understand how diamonds interact with their surroundings. Diamond facets act like little mirrors, reflecting everything around them, especially the color of the setting and prongs that hold the gem in place. A yellow gold setting will create yellow reflections on the center diamond, a white gold setting will create whitish/colorless reflections, and a rose gold setting will create pink reflections. Here are some suggestions for you to consider when choosing a setting.
- White gold is suitable for diamonds with color grades D to J:
White gold is perfect for accentuating the clarity of a diamond. Diamonds with a DEF grade on the GIA color scale are considered colorless diamonds, while diamonds with a GJ grade are near-colorless diamonds.
A G-color marquise diamond is set in white gold for an even brighter look.
- Yellow or white gold for diamonds with a color grade of M or lower: Diamonds with a color grade of M or lower may have a noticeable yellow tint. A yellow gold band can enhance the yellow hue of a diamond. Likewise, white gold can make a diamond appear closer to colorless.
This N color diamond is set in a yellow gold ring. The yellow hue of the diamond is enhanced by the gold.
- Rose gold offers another matching option. Diamonds with a D to L color grade will appear more striking in a rose-colored ring; diamonds with an M to Z color grade set in rose gold can give an engagement ring a softer look.
Rose gold creates a beautiful contrast with diamonds that range from D to L color. This ring features a 2.04 ct I color oval diamond center stone and 118 melee diamonds set in the band.
It’s also common for the setting to be a different color than the prongs that hold the diamond in place. For example, designers often use white gold prongs to make a colorless diamond stand out more in a yellow or rose gold ring. If you want to make a lower-grade diamond on the D-to-Z color scale look more dramatic, consider using a white gold ring with yellow or rose gold prongs.
Choosing the right gold for your colored gemstone engagement ring
Colored gemstone engagement rings are popular—just look at the sapphire ring worn by Kate Middleton and the padparadscha sapphire that celebrated Princess Eugenie’s engagement. With this gemstone to go along with, you may want a colored gemstone ring. A good way to choose a gemstone and a matching gold setting is to choose based on your personal preferences. But if you’re having trouble deciding, here are three tips to help you.
This rose gold ring features a 7.25 ct spessartine garnet. This charming piece is perfect for a winter evening in front of a crackling fire.
Define Your Engagement Ring Style with Gold
Yellow, white and rose gold have been loved by people throughout the ages. If you love the look of antique or vintage engagement rings, you can draw inspiration from these eras to create a ring style that is both unique and romantic. Here are four eras that have influenced modern design:
- Victorian Era (1837-1901): Yellow gold and rose gold engagement rings were popular. Jewelry designers used many charming and meaningful motifs: acrostic (anagram) messages , snakes for wisdom (a favorite of Queen Victoria), flowers (roses or forget-me-nots for love, and violets for fidelity), and more. These metals and motifs allowed for a variety of ring styles, from trendy to elegant.
This gorgeous 14K yellow gold engagement ring was made during the Victorian era and features floral motifs that were popular during that period.
- Edwardian Period (1900-1915): Edwardian-era engagement rings were often made of platinum. White gold was a beautiful, less expensive alternative. Motifs from this period featured triumphal laurel wreaths, moire patterns, feathers, tassels, ribbons tied in bows, and wreaths. If you love lace and aristocracy, an Edwardian-era white gold engagement ring may be for you.
Want an engagement ring inspired by the period? Here’s how to style your engagement ring in Edwardian style . Can’t decide between white gold and platinum ? Let’s compare them.
In this Edwardian diamond engagement ring, the toothed design and interwoven details give the ring a lace effect similar to that of the period.
- Art Deco Period (1920s and 1930s): Given the crisp, sophisticated character of the Art Deco period, it’s no surprise that white metals were popular during this period. Platinum once again became the metal of choice for fine jewelry, and white gold was ideal for recreating these timeless designs. Motifs from this period included geometric shapes and bold color contrasts, which were created by pairing diamonds with rubies , emeralds , or sapphires . If you’re drawn to the era of flappers and jazz, a white gold engagement ring may be your best choice.
How to create an Art Deco engagement ring with a custom creation .
The use of bold color contrasts and geometric patterns was a classic style of the Art Deco period. This 1.09 ct round brilliant diamond engagement ring is set in 18K white gold and accented with emeralds and sapphires.
- Vintage (1935-1950s): Warmth, boldness, and color are typical of this period. If you want to turn heads with your yellow or rose gold engagement ring, then definitely consider a vintage-era ring style. These designs have a sculptural quality, with bold lines and geometric shapes, while curves give the ring a softer feel. If you like vintage styling with a classic appeal, check out this style.
Get more tips on how to customize your engagement ring with a vintage touch .
Gold? Yes. Sculptural? Yes. Rounded edges? Yes. This ring has all the hallmarks of the vintage era, making it particularly striking.
Metal Matching – Use a combination of white, yellow and rose gold in your engagement ring design
Modern jewelry designers are full of creativity, bringing exciting new engagement ring designs. Metal combinations are a hot trend in engagement rings . Not only can the combination of metals add visual color impact to the ring, but it can also bring out the color that best complements the diamond. As mentioned above, one popular combination is a setting of one color with prongs of another color. You can also find engagement rings with a halo of gemstones with the center stone set in a gold setting that is a different color than the ring. You can also find engagement rings with two halves of gemstones, one halo set in rose gold and the other in white or yellow gold. This approach creates a subtle contrast that is very charming.
Yellow and white gold intertwine in this stunning engagement ring. The harmonious design symbolizes the union of two lives in marriage.
-ERR:REF-NOT-FOUND- A halo of 18K white gold surrounds a halo of 18K rose gold. Two halos of melee diamonds highlight the 1.05 ct round brilliant cut diamond center stone.
You can create a visual impact by using different colors of gold, as in this striking engagement ring. A Fancy pink diamond is surrounded by pink melee diamonds set in rose gold. It is surrounded by a halo of yellow diamonds set in yellow gold. The outer halo is brilliant 18K white gold with colorless diamonds.
Tip List: Gold Engagement Ring Buying Guide
There are many factors to consider when deciding between yellow, white or rose gold for your engagement ring. We’ve organized the most important aspects into a chart.
| gold | platinum | Rose Gold | |
| Alloy Color | Alloys from 8K (333) to 22K (917) can be used; 14K (583 or 585) and 18K (750) are great choices for engagement rings. | Commonly used options are 9K (375), 10K (417), 14K (583 or 585) and 18K (750) | Commonly used options are 9K (375), 10K (417), 14K (583 or 585) and 18K (750) |
| Alloy Metal | Copper, silver, zinc | Nickel or palladium, copper and zinc; white gold is often plated with rhodium | Copper, Silver and Zinc |
| Maintenance and cleaning | Avoid contact with chlorine and harsh chemicals as they can damage alloy metals. To clean, soak the ring in an ammonia solution with a drop of dishwashing liquid for 15-30 minutes. Use a soft toothbrush to remove stains and then rinse with warm water. | ||
| Best diamond colors to pair with | Color grades D to L | Diamonds with a color grade of D to L can create a contrasting effect; diamonds with a color grade of M to Z can highlight the yellow hue of the diamond. | Diamonds with color grades of D to L can create a contrasting effect; diamonds with color grades of M to Z can create a more harmonious visual effect. |
| Best matching gemstone colors | Warm colored gemstones, such as spessartine, yellow sapphire, orange sapphire, and imperial topaz | Cool-colored gemstones, such as blue or purple sapphire or spinel, tanzanite, or tsavorite | Warm colored or pink gemstones, such as morganite, ruby, red spinel, pink sapphire, and rubellite |
| Best suited for antique or vintage design styles | Victorian and Retro styles | Edwardian and Art Deco | Victorian and Retro styles |
| Allergic reactions | If you are allergic to copper, please do not choose it | Don’t choose it if you are allergic to copper or nickel (a common allergen); if you are allergic to either of these metals, consider platinum as an alternative | If you are allergic to copper, please do not choose it |
Once you’ve decided on the gold color for your engagement ring, you may want to start thinking about your preferred diamond shape. Did you know there are seven main shapes to choose from? Our article, A Guide to Diamond Shapes for Engagement Rings, outlines the biggest benefits of each shape and what to look out for before you buy.
